Category: career

Cool, Creamy, and Charred

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Tres Leeches de Coco.  A coconut lime cake soaked with 3 coconut milks, pistachio crunch, charred tequila pineapple, blood orange purée, toasted flake.

It’s about representing winter, and focusing on the wonders of natural ingredients.  It’s about representing the elemental forces in a dish, it’s about highlighting the flavors and textures of the season.  It’s about capturing the essence of fire and exploring everything that the coconut has to offer.

The cool and creamy coconut milk mimics the fresh snow both visually and texturally, the pistachio cookie mimics the crunching of the frozen snow underfoot, the charred pineapple is reminiscent of the flame produced by fire, reconnecting the consumer with the power of this primal tool.

The coconut is represented in all ways: the fresh grated flesh forms the base of the cake, the coconut milk is soaked throughout, the lightly toasted desiccated flake adds another texture and reminds the eater of warmth.  This is paired with a blood orange purée, a slightly bitter flavor that rounds out the sweet, the char, the toast, and the nut.

Together this creates a harmony, a refreshing taste after the hot and obnoxious summer.  This dish highlights the integrity of a few ingredients with minimal processing.  Nature steals the show with this dessert.

Tableside Effigy

I want to burn away the passing of the year with tableside fire.  Whatever will be served for dessert, it will be covered in flames.  I want this elemental act to physically change the dessert, to morph it into something different.  The symbolism of the effigy cleanse is translated into a better version of what was originally presented.  The dish can still subsist without the flame, just as we can subsist the way we are now, but we want to reach for something better, an updated version of ourselves.  In order to promote a better inner version, outside forces must be considered.  You influence the world and soak up what the effects have to offer.

The beginnings of the concept: fire sugar cubes over magic shell with something that will melt on the inside. I am thinking about chocolate ganache or caramel.  Cake underneath to catch the oozing filling inside the magic shell.   This dish is also preview for El Che, the new restaurant, where I really want to focus on elemental impacts in dishes.  Since the restaurant will focus largely on fire, this will be the showpiece.

Light a booze soaked marshmallow? Sugar in the raw cube?

Cherries jubilee- cherries soaked in brandy, lite that shit up.  Could be underneath like a glowing fire.

Bananas foster, think about that and rum.  The caramelized bananas are soaking in rum.

I like the idea of having a strong caramel presence to highlight the effects of high heat.  There must be chocolate, because how can you celebrate without this magical ingredient?

Eggrageous

Eggs.  I use and eat and consume and demand a lot of eggs.  All of which are chicken eggs, not just mainly, I am talking about exclusively.  What other kinds of eggs are out there?  I feel like I am missing out on a golden egg opportunity.  The only kind of eggs available widely is quail.  Have you ever seen a quail egg? It is so tiny!  I cannot even imagine the absurdity of separating the whites and yolks!  That is hilarious.  There are duck eggs, which are much larger than chicken eggs.  The taste profile is very similar.

What about a turkey egg?  What about eggs other than poultry?  I heard ostrich eggs are delicious, and huge.

 

Actions are louder than Moments

Messing up, having bad ideas, going the wrong way on a one way street.  Making concise failures, having the abstract not the concerte, admitting the foolish thoughts.

Having the most humiliating moments in your life, thoset “I wish nobody saw that but everyone did” moments force you to remember that yes people do and will forget.  At some point, they will forget the worst thing you ever made, just like how people forget the worst pimple you ever had.  Because everyone makes mistakes.  If you are not making mistakes then you are not trying hard enough.  If you capture the stars on the first round, then maybe you should aim for the moon, or mars, whatever is your ambition.  I am from the moon, so I aim for Saturn’s rings.  Although I am terrible at basketball, why did I ever pop that shot?

Point being, people remember your spirit, not your actions.  Impression is made with invisible sounds, not always with physical acts.

Talents is louder than words, actions are louder than moments.

Pondering Milk Mostly, Chef’s Notes

What happens when you dehydrate milk?  Do you get milk powder?  Milk tuile?

I bet I will have to make my own evaporated coconut milk… coconut milk jam it is!

I should start making my own milk chocolate… darkest of darkness chocolate, plus sweetened condensed milk, plus toast milk solids.  Yup!

Is it possible to make everything gluten free?  No whey?

Whipped Crème Anglaise?

Triple Crème Brie Turnover?

I can’t stop thinking about fried dough and cheese, goat cheese in particular.

I have a dream to make a chocolate and cheddar dessert, somehow bringing together chocolate and sharp cheese together in holy matrimony.  Some day, it will happen.

 

Basic Inspirations, Take 2

Part II, Chocolate

Like vanilla, chocolate is also a labor intensive and highly refined product.  While vanilla is the most fickle during the initial growing process, the science behind chocolate shines in the post growing production.  Also similar to vanilla, chocolate will only grow 20 degrees north and south of the equator.

Long before chocolate became a common ingredient, the Aztecs believed the chocolate was food from the gods, given to the humans by a rouge deity who later got punished for introducing this amazing ingredient to the humans.  How this myth got started is very believable, considering how non appealing the fruit growing on the tree it.  It looks like a giant papaya, the natural fruit looks nothing like the final product.  It is hard to believe that humans figured out this process without divine intervention.

Chocolate was used as a form of currency in ancient times and as soon as the revolutionary war.

Chocolate is the final product made with cacao as a base. In raw form, cacao is very bitter and needs to be fermented to develop taste.  After the fermentation process, the beans are dried and roasted to further develop flavor.  The shell is then removed, separating out the cocoa nibs.  The Mayans used part of the outer shell as a fermented sugar to make liquor, a  tradition that has stopped with the demise of the civilization.  I bet this liquor was delicious.  Chocolate was served as a frothy bitter beverage, flavored with vanilla, used as medicine and valued for its aphrodisiac properties.

Although this process has largely not changed since ancient times, this is where the development of chocolate stopped until it was introduced to the Spanish, who took it one step further.  The Spanish added sugar, segueing chocolate into the confection that we know today.  In 1815 a Dutch chemist figured out a way to make chocolate less bitter by adding alkaline salt.  In 1850 a Quaker figured out how to add melted cocoa butter back into pressed chocolate, giving chocolate the solid form that we know today.  In 1875 a Swedish man added milk and mild powder to chocolate, forming the Nestle company and really changing the face of chocolate.

After the cacao is shelled, the cocoa nibs are further broken down to create cocoa mass and cocoa butter.  These are then recombined to create the ideal blend of mass and butter for mouth feel and structure.  After the chocolate is blended, it goes through a process called conching.  A container is filled with metal beads that act a grinders, making the chocolate and sugar granules so small that the tongue cannot detect any particles or grittiness.  This process can take up to 72 hours.

After this step, the chocolate must be tempered so that the fat crystals align in such a way to create a uniform structure.  This is done through a particular formula of time, temperature, and movement.  This process is one of the steps that makes working with chocolate so difficult.  Once chocolate is melted down, the crystal struck has collapsed.  It must be built back up again with this closely monitored system.  If not done properly, the chocolate with crumble instead of snap, very important for mouth feel and structural integrity of the final product

The different percentages of chocolate and the corresponding bitterness is a result of adding back in cocoa butter, sugar, milk.  These are then recombined to create different percentage of chocolate, the most popular being unsweetened, semisweet, dark chocolate 65%, milk chocolate, and white chocolate.

Although native to Mexico, West Africa grows 2/3 of chocolate, half of this coming from the ivory coast.  Given how laborious and long the process of making chocolate is, there is no surprise that slavery plantations sprung up to deal with growing demand of this amazing product.  Although slavery is now demeaned inhumane, we currently still have a problem with child slavery.  There are some chocolate products labeled fair trade, but surprisingly, child slavery still exists.  The demand for cheap and available product has created a situation that is beyond immoral and very upsetting.

Outside of a tasty confection, chocolate has long been used as a form of medicine.  It is high in antioxidants, reduces heart burn, and is an anti inflammatory.  Not only is chocolate delicious, its history complex, the uses for chocolate are seemly endless.

Basic Inspirations, Take 1

 

Part I Vanilla

The vanilla bean is the seed of the orchid, how elegant and sexy is that?  It is used primarily in baking, perfume, and aromatherapy.  It has a strong, rich floral aroma that is both sweet and mildly earthy, it is well balanced and mellow: it is not too soft or too strong, it is not cloyingly floral, it is not too heavy or woody.  The term French vanilla refers to how the bean is used, rather than a particular species of bean.  French vanilla means a strong floral aroma combined with yolks, hence French Vanilla ice cream.

This seed pod is very precious, precarious, and delicate.  Outside of its natural habit, the vanilla flower has to be cultivated by hand because only one species of bee pollinates the flower.  Additionally, the flowers will only live for one day before they die.  Thus, this window for pollination is excruciatingly small, a one shot chance.  This means that the vanilla vine has to be monitored daily to detect when there flower develops and is ready for reproduction.  The vine does not flower all at once, individual flowers will form at their own speed.

Once the plant has been properly pollinated, it takes 6 months for the vanilla bean to reach maturity,  again requiring daily attention as each seed matures at different rate.  Once maturity has been reached, the pods must be picked by hand because they are so gentle.  This whole process is tender, attentive, and laborious.

This is the first step on the train ride before the seeds are ready for the market.  After an extensive 4 step curing and fermentation process that takes about 7 months, the now fragrant vanilla bean is packaged and ready to be graded and priced based on size and moisture.  Average bulk price per pound of grade A beans, about 120 beans, is $130. Beans sold to the consumer is about $8 per bean. The only spice more expensive is Saffron.

The four cultivators are Bourbon-Madagascar (representing 75% of the market), Mexican, Tahitian, and West Indian.  The picky vanilla plant will only grow between 10 and 20 degrees north and south of the equator.

The arduous bean must be stored in vacuum sealed packaging, or in an air tight glass vital for up to 8 months.  After over a year of development, this demanding bean will be optimal for use for just a little over half of that time, given that it is stored properly.  If not vacuumed sealed, the bean will last 2 months.

The vanilla bean is quite extraordinary. Once you split open this long, thin, dark brown pod you are bombarded with a zillion almost microscopic seeds.  It is seemingly impossible how intricate the inside of this sleek slip is.  This audacious bean has penetrated the market so all encompassing because of how amazing and universal the flavor is.  The story and development of this bean is truly amazing.  I am still trying to figure out how vanilla came to describe something boring and plain, when the flavor is so exquisite and it’s history so exotic.

Basic Inspirations in Detail

Vanilla and chocolate, both ubiquitous in desserts the world over, are native to Mexico.   These two ingredients are fascinating that they considered common given how labor intensive and rare they are.  They were originally cultivated by the Mayans, brought to outside world after the Columbus incident, developed into tasty treats by the French, made widely available by the industrial revolution.  The infamous Hernan Cortés is credited with bring both of these ingredients to the outside world.  The legacy of these flavors lives on, surpassing the fame of this conquistador, being a lasting link to a long dead civilization.

The history of these ingredients are long and bloody. It begins with the Aztecs equating the shelling of the cacao seeds with the scarifying of the human heart, and escalating into civilizations of slavery, plantations of forced labor, generations of exploration, and now with child labor violations.  Delicious.

We take these flavors for granted when in reality they have been consumed for thousands of years, have traveled the globe, and have extreme and laborious growing and production processes. Over the next two posts, Marigold is going to dive into detail about these amazing ingredients.

Twin Promises

It’s a man’s world.  Having twin older brothers prepared me well for the gender skewed adulthood.  Me vs Them, I choose to sit back and watch, rather than join right into the center of the battle. I gave up the telly, I didn’t fight to play the video games, I didn’t challenge bedtime or pick fights with the babysitter.  It is not that I am passive or not opinionated, I learned early on that is it best to opt out of playing the game rather then try to keep up with the tornado of young boys.  I largely went through childhood unnoticed, and this I carry into adulthood.

The simple fact of gender difference is still very noteworthy.  Kitchen life is boys club.   It is basically an exclusively male industry that is very testosterone dominate and aggressive.  It is competitive, stressful, and physical.  I work in an environment where men still think that they can do better job than me.  Sometimes I can do things just as good as my male counterpart, but hardly ever better.

Like a 2:1 ratio in childhood, this is how it is to be a women in a often 100 percent male environment.  I have to work twice as hard, I have to be twice as good, I have to be twice as tough, I have to deal with situations that my male counterparts are completely unaware of.

Aside from the competition aspect in the kitchen life, harassment is a big part of dealing with this macho defined environment.  I work in an environment where you have to verbally tell your coworkers that they cannot call you sexy, or beautiful, that they cannot touch you.  When you nicely lay down these rules that have been in place in a professional environment for years, they get mad at you, stop talking to you, making work very tenuous.  You have discussions about how you need to be treated the same as everyone else, and then they physically push you around because you want to be treated fairly, like a man.  In situation you have to work so much harder to gain respect because they cannot get past small hands and generous curves

There are many things that you simply cannot say.  How do you tell somebody that they cannot look at your while they lick there lips?  How do you tell somebody not to pay unwanted attention to you?  Not to stare at you?  Not brush against your butt? How do you tell people not to whistle when you walk in the room?  Say things under there breath?

What about the varieties of men who are in and out of the kitchen delivering things, how do you tell them not to stare at you, not to call you pretty, leave the room because they make you feel uncomfortable?

I really like to joke around and to talk to people, I care about people deeply.  But yet this is often mistaken for flitting and interested, so I have to keep my mouth shut, not talk to anyone more than what is needed.  Honestly, I don’t feel like I can be my true and charming self because this only brings about harassment.

You wear sweaters that cover your butt so that hopefully people will stare less.  I want to look nice at work because I am a professional, but because these guys act like they have never seen a women, I feel like I have to hide behind baggy cloths, mismatched outfits.  I do not dare wear make-up to work.

There are many accepts to my daily struggle that men do not understand, but I wish they would be a but more sympathetic to the only woman’s struggle and how much of an impact this still makes.

I prefer to go unnoticed, I prefer to work autonomously, I prefer to be alone, letting my work speak for me.  I am not brazen, and my sensativies and emotions are not a shortcoming.  I am not part of the club and I don’t want to be.  I did not sign up for this egotistical measure of success.  No I don’t want to compete in your silly games.

At the end of the day, and at the beginning of the day, I get to be a female, and I get to be me.  That, ladies and gentleman, is reward enough to keep putting up with charade, to keep my heart strong and my verbs soft.

Gooey Galaxy

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Rich, warm, sultry.

Dense like an imploding star

Dark like the depth of winter’s charm

Crunchy like the frozen ground underfoot

Tart like the twinkle in a lonely star

Creamy like the lost milky way.

Come and find, indulge your intrigue.